What's with all the fur?
As world headlines home in on the fractious, deeply troubling U.S. elections (get well soon, Hillary), it's fascinating to see how American designers are reacting to the climate through their work. There seem to be two schools of thought emerging.
In one corner: a very austere, realist, unisex take on dressing. And in the other: something entirely more fanciful and feminine.
SCOTCH & SODA SS17
There's a frilly, folksy feeling spreading through New York this week. We've already established the tango element. But there's a slightly different, romantic, back-to-the-land feeling happening as well. It's not quite bohemian, more 1960s Eastern European. Or British Arts and Crafts revival in 1970s California. And it couldn't be more different from the elevated streetwear story that continues to rule the season. The Amsterdam-based Scotch & Soda channeled the look through nature in a collection filled with ruffled high-neck shirts and maxi dresses in floral prints.
3.1 PHILLIP LIM SS17
Meanwhile, Tory Burch used full prairie skirts and dresses to convey a certain tony, yet free-spirited look.
Meanwhile, Phillip Lim touched upon the feeling in his Victorian florals and frills, by way of Nashville, as a response to the current climate of austerity. He explained, 'It's my reaction to the current mood in culture. Somehow playful austerity seems to be a new sensuality.'
3.1 PHILIP LIM SS17
PROENZA'S COLOUR-BLOCKING FOR THE WIN
The social media winner was clear: a colour-blocked, stripey-knit tee and matching ostrich feather skirt that spread as quickly on Instagram as it traveled around the runway.
Three models later, we met its cousin: a clingy knit dress in similar primary colours, black feathers swinging around the legs just below the knee. Expect to see a lot of these two looks in your spring magazines — and a lot of 'interpretations' on the high street.
The rest of Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez's Spring work was just as festive and worthy of obsession, including graphic dresses with swingy skirts and knotted, peekaboo tops. If ever there was a time to crave a see-now-buy-now moment, it was here.
FUR ALL YEAR AROUND
Fur coats in Spring collections are not new, but they're appearing in a bigger way this season (Prabal, Diane von Furstenberg, Proenza, the list goes on). And when you consider most spring collections drop in store at that point in winter when the weather finally turns glacial but the autumn/winter coats are all sold out, it makes sense.
DIANE VON FURSTENBERG SS17
But for the record, ELLE is strictly anti-fur. So can we get a few puffers in the mix please?
This article originally appeared in www.elleuk.com